Milan Part 3 – Around the Castello Sforzesco with a Grumpy Toddler and Grumpier Parents

You’ll be able to tell we were in the last day of our 3-day weekend in Milan from the general tone of this post which could be summed up as hot/tired/closed. Stop now if you’re looking for happy-clappy fun.

The Last Supper at Santa Maria delle Grazie: I would love to show you Weasel appreciating the fine art of Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece (or Il Cenacolo in Italian to follow the street signs), but sadly we discovered that there is occasionally a downside to having 2 last-minute kind of people in a relationship, you have to book about a week in advance to get in. At least we managed to see the outside of the church and I got to feel vaguely smug that, unlike husband, at least I knew the thing was in Milan. Weasel slept through the whole event.

Thankfully nearby is the much less packed…..

Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo di Vinci –

This brilliant find could take up a lot more of your day than we planned for and we probably only managed about a third of the exhibits, not making it out of the main building. As the name suggests, it’s a science museum with a bit of da Vinci models thrown in. The main building was mostly pram accessible, only requiring the odd carry up a few stairs. We probably should have abandoned it, but Weasel was asleep for the first half hour or so. Husband enjoyed the random steam stuff and basically anything with a machine he could pretend to be an expert on. Being the end of July, we had the museum pretty much to ourselves as well, so no amount of toddler noise was going to irritate anyone. And there was a changing table in the disabled loo on the ground floor, woohoo! Couldn’t see a hands on kids section, but then it was summer holidays and who knows what was in those other buildings. We are so going back sometime for the submarines and airplanes section we missed. This is not one to leave until 6 hours before your flight home!

And the best part for a pregnant lady in 40 degree heat? Seats next to blasting air-conditioning units. Bliss.

Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia
“Leonardo da Vinci”
Via San Vittore 21, 20123 Milano

By public transport

Metro M2 stop S. Ambrogio
Bus 50, 58 stop San Vittore
Bus 94 stop Carducci

map of the museum's surroundings

After grabbing a bite to eat across the street at a pizzeria, which for once I managed to totally not get the name of AND am unable to find on the internet (shameful!), where Weasel had total breakdown in a thankfully empty restaurant over a 4 cheese piadina. It was good, and the 3 members of staff were very kind to us given we were the only ones there that day from the looks of it!  They do have one hidden toilet at the back, but no space for changing.

Commence Breakdown!

So we ended our trip at the 14th century Castello Sforzesco, a ginormous fort/castle which dominates this area. Again, total lack of time meant we wondered around the baking outside, taking the advantage of the loos and a little air-conditioning in the ticket office when needed. It’s choc-a-bloc with museums inside, but given the time/state of Weasel/state of mummy, we just had a wander instead. The loos are not accessible by pram, nor having baby changing, nor meet basic standards set out in UN conventions on human rights and dignity I’m sure. They should definitely write something on the state of public toilets if they haven’t already, I will volunteer my help I think.  I’m sure pissing in the park with the tramps out back would be more hygienic and less smelly/dank/horrid. Oh well. They do have a fountain out front (I am in no way suggesting you piss in that, I’ve moved the subject on without changing paragraph), which is full of kids in bathing suits. I suggest you take a dip so you and your family don’t melt.

Verdict: Don’t wait until the last day to do the science museum – it rocks and is a lot better than anything else we managed to find. Do the castle in the winter and book ahead for the Last Supper. Don’t expect baby changing anywhere.

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